Daniele Calcaterra’s fall collection was a study in contrasts. Taking his cue from androgynous muses like Marlene Dietrich and Loulou de la Falaise, the designer played with tailoring proportions, alternating between tidy cropped jackets and outerwear of gargantuan dimensions. A fur-trimmed white coat, its shoulders jutting out way past the model’s shoulders, was paired with a Cab Calloway-style suit. Felted gray cashmere gave an odd heft to a bustier dress, its hourglass shape drowned by an oversized men’s jacket. On the opposite end of the spectrum, a floor-length gown in flowing rust-colored chiffon was as light as a whisper. Gauzy layers underpinned pinstriped wool, and added a filmy veil to a sculptural wrap top and pleated trousers. The display suggested Calcaterra’s cerebral customer embraces her contradictions. The flashes of glossy pony skin and beaver fur hinted she has a wild streak bubbling just under the surface.
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