Some seeming renegades are genuine; some ride convenient waves of cultural currency. Yohji Yamamoto is in the former camp, unafraid to put his beliefs out there, period, end of story — even when they fly in the face of political correctness. Asked for a soundbite after his show on Friday night, Yamamoto answered, “anti-racism, anti-crazy global-warming.” Truth be told, it was tough — for this critic at least — to draw even circuitous lines from there back to his runway, save for his beautiful finale that featured five black models. What was readily apparent: an obvious, alluring sensuality seldom seen on a Yamamoto runway. There, the designer’s explanation was clear but surprising, at odds with the cultural tides: “anti-genderless dressing.” Asked to elaborate, Yamamoto obliged. “Recenty, young boys, they’ve started wearing [more feminine clothes],” he said. “Especially young boys, they are losing their identity as a man.” That Yamamoto alluded to the issue on his women’s runway surprises less than the statement itself, speaking as it does to his non-linear thought process and approach to fashion. Here, he presented a discrete but clear uptick in his collection’s femininity factor, perhaps a subversive suggestion that old-school feminine and masculine tropes aren’t so bad,
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