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Junya Watanabe RTW Spring 2019

Denim. How exciting! No, that is not petulant sarcasm. The sight of blue jeans — one of the most mundane, everyday, everywhere fabrics in modern fashion — stirred genuine feelings of fashion euphoria as the opening of Junya Watanabe’s spring show. Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” on the soundtrack helped, but that aside, it’s been a good long while since Watanabe cast his singular eye on denim for the majority of a collection. Go back and look at fall 2013 and spring 2011. When he cuts jeans, his brings his brilliance in cut and deconstruction to the people — not all people, but his people — with clothes built from a place of warm familiarity, even as Watanabe performs high-concept, reconstructive surgery on them. They have a place in this world. It’s not dumbing down. It’s luxury. Now, it stands to argue that the fit-and-flare dress made from squares of faded indigo denim dissected, shredded and reassembled in a patchwork of conductor stripes and white lace, its full skirt lined in fluffy white tulle, is not for doing the dishes. But it made Watanabe’s point from the get-go: “to express the romantic feeling in rock,” according to a brief, explanatory e-mail from the house.

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