Celine’s new day has begun. As presented, the onset of that day played as more of a new night, because Hedi Slimane focused on after dark. He titled his show “Paris La Nuit,” and wrote in his program notes simply, “Journal Nocturne de la Jeunesse Parisienne.” Telling words indeed. There is virtually no connective tissue between Slimane’s aesthetic and that of his predecessor, Phoebe Philo, a reality on flagrant display throughout the show: Out with Philo’s powerful woman-to-woman runway messaging that connected so intimately with her client base; in with Slimane’s social-friendly, primacy-of-youth focus. Though perhaps curious given today’s cultural climate, the seismic change was not at all unexpected considering Slimane’s very specific visual résumé. His Celine is the sister and brother (lots of men’s wear) of his Saint Laurent. Only, here, he focused on the more wholesome siblings — the models didn’t look strung out. These girls love la nuit, their primary staple a party dress, mostly of the LBD ilk, though with intense color here and there. The dresses were very short and would-be sexy (a change of shoe; a flick of mascara), often retro with a flourish — sparkles, a cutout, a fancy sleeve, the giant, bow-like bodice that opened
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