As freak warm weather sent pollution — and pollen — levels in Paris soaring, it seemed only fitting that Marine Serre showed a third of her designs with some sort of protective mask. Climate change is happening, and it won’t be long before we’re hunkering underground for shelter, she suggested. To drive home the point, Serre staged her show in a wine cellar in the Paris suburbs that was tricked out with laser lights and smoke machines, in a disquieting cross between a nightclub and a bunker. “This show was a kind of dream or, I don’t know, a kind of reverie on the future, and then the idea was that it would be an apocalypse,” she said backstage. “This girl will be the girl from 2050 that survived.” The designer’s response was to double down on the upcycling approach that is core to the brand: she said more than half the looks used recycled elements. Some were obvious, like the vintage jewelry that jangled on a black Lycra dress attached to a balaclava mask. Others weren’t, like the jeans covered in her signature crescent motif. Some of her favorite ideas were reused, too. The scarf dresses and full-coverage bodysuits will be familiar by
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