It was one of the coolest light shows this side of Burning Man. On Tuesday, Anthony Vaccarello turned the YSL show space into a runway rave with a tunnel of black light, hundreds of pulsing bulbs and infinity mirrors that made models into walking glow sticks and fluorescent footwork out of their high heels. It was a fitting finale to a collection that was straight-up Eighties, with big shoulders, small skirts and legs for days, inspired by Catherine Deneuve, Bianca Jagger and Betty Catroux, the liberated muses of the “me” (if not necessarily the #MeToo) generation. “Everything starts with the shoulder,” the designer said backstage of his silhouette. “I don’t want to talk about oversized, because everyone is doing oversized. It’s a straight silhouette…I want to give more power to women, and I think they need the shoulder.” The result felt more directional and less crowded with commercial merch than some past seasons, just pure fashion with a capital “F” that stood up to the special effects. The first look was a mannish gray overcoat with shoulders as wide as Tom Brady’s over a plunge-front tuxedo jumpsuit cut close to the body, the yin and yang of a woman’s power to conquer and seduce,
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