MILAN — Every brand wants to be Glossier, but that’s no easy task, especially in a country like Italy. The Bel Paese is historically rooted in beauty — artistic, architectural and environmental — and is home to leading color cosmetic suppliers, which manufacture more than 60 percent of the makeup products distributed by international beauty brands in Europe and over half of the makeup distributed worldwide, according to Cosmetica Italia’s data. Yet this heritage and know-how has rarely resulted in local blockbuster labels, even less in powerhouses or conglomerates that could compete with L’Oréal and the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. Backed by a strong supply chain culminating in a few, individual cases — think Kiko Milano — the Italian beauty industry is made of small- to medium-sized brands making good products but lacking the expertise and boldness to create distinctive brand awareness. But with the booming appeal of the niche category, customers’ ambition in scouting unique brands to boast of to their peers and with social media platforms making communication strategies accessible and less expensive compared to traditional channels, entrepreneurial moves are starting to prosper in Italy. Founded in December, Espressoh is one of the Instagram beauty labels that have been popping up recently.
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