If there’s one thing that’s courted controversy on the runways in Paris, it’s denim, from the fraying denim shorts as base layer for the circa 2020 “le smoking” at YSL, to Seventies Landlubber throwback jeans at Celine, to ripped and shredded Nineties iterations at Givenchy, reworked from actual upcycled vintage pieces in a nod to sustainability, bravo Clare Waight Keller! It’s not that designer denim is a new phenomenon, far from it. But somehow, in this era of class and climate warfare, it’s been a lightning rod. But the beauty of denim is that it can be the uniform of the aristocrat and the protester. Designer denim costs more simply because it can, because customers are willing to pay for context and emotions and values. And at Givenchy, Keller has created the whole package, carving out a feminist fashion niche that is honest and questioning (dressing a duchess for her big day didn’t hurt, either). Titled “NY Paris 1993,” Waight Keller’s latest collection was a look back at a particular moment in time in the Nineties when she started working in fashion at Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren and was traveling between New York and Paris. She was reminiscing about the contrast of
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