Visitors to the Rick Owens retrospective currently on at the Palais Galliera in Paris eventually arrive at a darkened room with a sensitivity warning, for it shelters a life-size statue of the designer relieving himself into a steel trough — and video footage of far naughtier acts. And a conversation with the designer about his penchant for provocation ultimately alights on his infamous “free willy” men’s show for fall 2015, whose main feature was a visible penis, often peeping through portholes in cutaway outerwear. Rick Owens Kuba Dabrowski/WWD Owens notes the spectacle riled Karl Lagerfeld, who denounced it as “disgusting” on French television. “I was delighted, because that’s exactly the kind of uptight white guy I wanted to provoke,” Owens recalls. “The world is such a judgmental place, filled with judgmental people like Karl Lagerfeld, that I feel my role is to playfully taunt them and promote my cheerful degeneracy to balance things out. “I don’t want people to think there’s any...