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40 of Tomorrow: Olga Karput

Like many of the young designers she champions, Moscow retailer Olga Karput draws on her instincts, not a formal fashion education or well-worn industry paths. “In 2009, I realized that Moscow needed a concept store,” the founder of KM20 recalls. “We essentially rethought the whole system. If 10 years ago you needed to have luxury brands to open a respected store in Russia, we decided to do that in our way and we focused on foreseeing new, upcoming talents. With some brands, we essentially grew up together, for example, Gosha Rubchinskiy.” Karput also bet early on Virgil Abloh of Off-White, Heron Preston, Heliot Emil and Samuel Ross of A-Cold-Wall — and quickly became Russia’s ringleader in fashion’s streetwear movement. “In my opinion, luxury streetwear has evolved into true luxury, while the old fashion houses, historically considered true luxury, are now trying to keep up. I like that the concept of the hierarchy has disappeared in the fashion industry,” she enthuses. “A designer no longer needs many years to go through all the steps in a big house or to have some kind of very special fashionable education. Clear rules no longer exist.” KM20, which takes its name from its original address at Kuznetsky

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