Hedi Slimane has carved out his Celine ethos decisively and unapologetically — he mines the bourgeois Seventies. Period. In the past he’s done it with a focus on a single look. Last season it was jeans and a jacket, and before that, culottes. For fall, he offered a veritable lexicon, at least for women, of every look you can possibly think of from the polished side of the decade. For men, his focus was tighter. Slimane’s show notes referred to the collection as “unisex”, and said, “the men’s looks can be for women and vice versa, including the bags.” (He brought back the Sulky from 1966, which looked great.) Yet while there was very clear crossover — the frilled blouse was an essential component for both — they each played to different archetypes of the era. Once again, the women depicted the chic bourgeoisie. They wore pretty bow-neck shirtdresses with fluid skirts; trim jackets over those frilled blouses and skinny flared pants, walking shorts, or skirts from mini to mid-calf and an impressive array of coats. Slimane’s ideal man is a cool rock god with gentle dandy persona, in polished, lean silhouettes. Jackets anchored the looks for both women and men,
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