Heliot Emil RTW Fall 2020

Copenhagen-based label Heliot Emil chose to stage its fall 2020 presentation as a virtual experience – scheduled like a fashion show, but held online only. “We’re trying to build this idea that everyone should be able to see this world we’re creating,” designer Julius Juul explained over the phone. The models were seen walking into a concrete and steel-clad room in front of a 360° camera, and via computer or smartphone, observers could move around, viewing the space from different angles, thanks to gyroscope censors. The co-ed lineup channeled a utilitarian esthetic in a palette of black, gray and touches of white, with metallic hardware and carabiners punctuating stark silhouettes, from chunky puffer jackets to asymmetric body-con dresses and boxy tailoring. WWD Critique: Online fashion shows are having a bit of a moment, but the severe esthetics and staging – and difficulties logging on – did not encourage engagement with the virtual experience.

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