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Saint Laurent RTW Fall 2020

Le smoking was smoked, the jean shorts shorted and Marrakech a distant memory. This season, Anthony Vaccarello went all in on Latex to put his spin on fashion’s throwback bourgeois trend. Latex leggings were the new base layer for the house specialty, jackets. In an antidote to so many seasons of black, double-breasted blazers came in an array of patterns and hues — royal blue, firecracker red, yellow, Prince of Wales check, windowpane, and more, with perfectly prim velvet collars and gold buttons. The models rocked them, hands in pockets, legs gleaming, casting big shadows on the soft-carpeted infinity runway. Draped Latex blouses and zip-back pencil skirts reinforced the idea of a new classicism, with bows, ruffle collars, ribbon tied cuffs and cocooning feather capes adding a few spare decorative elements. The reference for the collection was the Nineties, the designer said backstage, after greeting Rami Malek and Zoe Kravitz.  “That was when YSL was less in the street than in the ’60s and ’70s.”  Now, once again, fashion is getting more dressed up. The fetish play was a way to update mama’s yuppie style (pussy bow blouses, culottes and polka dot ankle strap pumps were also in the mix) for today’s Instagram exhibitionists

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