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Off-White RTW Fall 2020

“Slightly Off” was the working title for Virgil Abloh’s latest Off-White collection and, unfortunately, it was not his best effort. The show, which unfurled across a vast concrete floor at the AccorHotels Arena, seemed to have a lot going for it: Not only Gigi and Bella Hadid, but their model mother Yolanda, too, together on the runway for the first time. The models circulated around derelict luxury cars that had been spliced length-wise or width-wise and stood on the sawed-off end. Sparkly confetti rained down on them just before the finale walk — a bit more Instagram gold. And then there’s Abloh, whose frenetic creativity, erudite nature and keen antenna have made him a cultural ringleader for young generations. Backstage, dressed in a lumberjack shirt scattered with crystals, he talked about wanting to make his fall women’s collection for all ages, a mash-up spanning from technical outerwear and spray-painted leather to fantastical couture. “It’s ageless, it’s exuberant, it’s youthful, no matter the practical number of age,” he enthused. “And also, you see a level of refinement, quality and luxury. There is a maturity that is a design tool that I’m playing with just as much as sneakers.” The opening looks were promising: neat blouses,

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