Are Guest Designers the New Engine of Fashion?

If Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo had her way, Giorgio Armani would open up his archive and atelier to Dutch couturier Iris Van Herpen for a season. “That could create some extraordinary results,” mused Fargo, senior vice president of the fashion office and the director of women’s fashion and store presentation at the Manhattan retailer. “A guest designer or collaborator can bring a fresh take on the DNA of another brand. It’s like a duet: Think Amy Winehouse and Tony Bennett.” While Fargo’s fantasy pairing might never happen, a growing number of marquee designers and luxury brands are inviting guest designers for a one-time appearance — or basing creative leadership based on serial collaboration rather than permanent artistic direction. WWD has learned that Emilio Pucci, which has churned through six creative directors in the past 20 years, will now invite rotating guests to interpret its brand essence, archive and spirit, starting with French designer Christelle Kocher. Moncler is perhaps the most prominent proponent of using serial creatives. In 2018, it invited eight designers including Pierpaolo Piccioli, Craig Green and Simone Rocha to join its new Genius project, which followed having Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne design women’s and men’s runway collections, respectively, for a decade. Tod’s

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